A few months ago, I spoke about Wit & West, the all-natural fragrance line from Colorado I happily discovered over the past year or so. In my article and interview with owner and perfumer, Whitney “Wit” Swales, I also mentioned I wanted to try La Valse and Gardenia ‘Ono, two limited edition fragrances from the line’s reserve collection.
I purchased samples shortly after publishing that article and I am excited to share my impressions today.
A lover of all things fragrant and beautiful, Whitney is a prolific natural perfumer who loves to explore and feature rare raw materials in her creations. Indeed, the two fragrances from her reserve collection artfully highlight two precious floral ingredients, bourbon rose and gardenia absolutes. The element that both creations have in common is a bold and full-bodied richness that almost conveys a textural sensation.
Although I was at first unsure about Gardenia ‘Ono, I discovered this is a fragrance that grows on me each time I wear it.
I should say that my relationship with gardenia in fragrance hasn’t been easy. The scent of the actual flowers is one of my oldest floral scent memories. My mom owned a gardenia plant when I was young, and I couldn’t get enough of the aroma coming from those velvety white petals – powerful, zesty, and sweet with hints of tropical fruit. In perfumery, I have often found gardenia notes to be excessively creamy, coconutty, and at times even plastic-like.
Gardenia ‘Ono is a different story. It’s a gardenia soliflore accented by the tart brightness of lime zest, the satisfying sweetness of vanilla and champaca, and the cozy intensity of tonka and sandalwood.
The opening truly speaks for the textural feel I mentioned earlier. A blend of key lime and vanilla adds a delicious mouthfeel to the heady gardenia, which immediately peeks through but doesn’t quite bloom until a few minutes later. The fragrance’s heart is rich in a classic white floral way and the sweetness remains (I am guessing the champaca helps convey a honeyed quality). The dry down is gentle and warm as tonka and sandalwood envelope my skin in a comforting and fragrant cloak. The composition’s overall exotic vibe never falls into creamy or milky floral territory.
Notes:
Top: Key Lime, Vanillin
Heart: Gardenia Absolute, Champaca
Base: Tonka Bean, Sandalwood
Inspired by the waltz (Whitney is a ballroom dancer), La Valse brings together a sensual softness and confident earthy quality that captivated me from the very beginning. I tend to have a soft spot for rose and its multifaceted interpretations in fragrances, and I am pleased to see that Wit & West offer quite a variety.
La Valse opens with a red velvet rose note enveloped by spices and sweetness. There is a textural coziness that makes the composition plush yet sophisticated with a touch of silky dark chocolate. A soothing bourbon rose tempers the higher pitched quality of Damask rose, conveying a soft powderiness. If the rose in Rosa De Bolero is gothic, witchy, and a little harsh, the rose in La Valse is dusky pink, flirty, and tactile. Whitney’s own vanilla bean tincture adds lush vibes, while the patchouli conveys a slightly “dirty” undertone. Carnal and dense, the fragrance nods to glamorous compositions of times past.
Notes:
Top: Black Pepper
Heart: Rose Bourbon, Rose Absolute
Base: Vanilla Bean Tincture, Patchouli, Benzoin
All creations by Wit and West are handcrafted in small batches in Littleton, Colorado following the methods of artisanal perfumery. The fragrances are made using 100% all-natural raw materials and all packaging is composed of recyclable materials. Wit crafts all the fragrances and her husband, West, oversees all design components of the line.
La Valse and Gardenia ‘Ono are available in 15 ml and 1.5 ml vials on the line’s website.
I personally purchased both samples of La Valse and Gardenia ‘Ono from the Wit & West website.
Thank you, Damiana, for these wonderful reviews of Gardenia ‘Ono and La Valse! I am so glad to hear you like them both and I am especially happy to know that Gardenia ‘Ono has grown on you (it’s not for the faint of heart ;).
– Whitney (Wit), Wit & West Perfumes
Wonderful creations! I love your use of raw materials. Thank you!
Although I haven’t tried anything from this brand, I love the sound of both of these. Great reviews, dear Damiana.
Hopefully they will expand one day. Thank you for the kind words, Rich!