Moonlight in Chiangmai is Dusita’s latest well-acclaimed release and the first fragrance I’ve had the pleasure of trying from this elegant Paris-based brand.
With this creation, Pissara Umavijani, perfumer and owner of Dusita, sought to pay an olfactory tribute to the city of Chiangmai in Thailand (her native country). In particular, she dedicated it to the “golden moon” reflected on the city’s Doi Suthep temple, golden paper lanterns floating in the crisp and smoky air.
Notes of bright yuzu and tangy grapefruit open Moonlight in Chiangmai with a zesty, sparkling burst of energy. Their distinct bitterness was instantly invigorating and addictive. I have always enjoyed yuzu’s refreshing exoticism in fragrance, but I have also found it to be fleeting in most perfumes that feature it. Here, yuzu’s glow persists and, over time, appears to adorn crystal-like flower petals, which shyly peek through with their sweet and delicate aroma.
The peculiarity of the fragrance lies in a complex teak wood accord that Pissara created to convey the wet and humid sensation of the rainforest in Thailand. The blend includes tonka bean, cedarwood, sandalwood, pinewood, and bergamot, among several other notes (read Despina Veneti’s interview with Pissara for Cafleurebon here).
I perceive the overall sensation of damp wood harmoniously combined with drier notes of patchouli and vetiver, which add earthy and hay-like accents. This well-composed accord interlaces with the faintly sweet and warm aroma of nutmeg, and the balsamic richness of myrrh and benzoin.
Later in its evolution, the fragrance vaguely reminds me of refreshing colognes from the past, but with added sweetness and mouthwatering touches.
Moonlight in Chiangmai exudes a radiance that truly recalls the image of the moon lacquering the sky or reflecting in a body of water, its lucent and shimmering beauty lifting the night’s darkness. It’s the kind of fragrance that diffuses light and later surprises you with its warm heart.
Dusita’s creations are inspired by the poems composed by Montri Umavijani, Pissara’ late father. According to the brand’s philosophy, perfumes and poetry elevate both human senses and mind, and invigorate the spirits toward blissful happiness. “Dusita” is the Thai word for “Paradise”.
Our understanding comes
not because we are
on earth together,
but because we are under
the same heaven.
– Montri Umavijani (1941–2006)
View the campaign for Moonlight in Chiangmai here.
Notes are listed as they appear in the house’s website:
The Opening,
An energetic citrusy freshness from the exotic Japanese Yuzu combined with the floral opulence of night-blooming Jasmine.
At the Heart,
The warm spiciness of Indian Nutmeg blended with the vanillic nuanced sweetness of Benzoin Siam builds a wonderfully dense heart.
The Base Notes,
A resinous touch of Myrrh beautifully wrapped by woody tones of Patchouli Indonesia, Vetiver Haiti and Thai Teak Wood in a comfortable long-lasting embrace.
I reviewed Dusita Moonlight in Chiangmai from a 50 ml bottle and sample I won from Sarah Colton’s Instagram “Sweet Dreams” draw, which she kindly dedicated to the wellbeing and peace of mind of the fragrance community in the fall of 2020. I’d like to warmly thank Sarah and Pissara Umavijani for this very generous giveaway.
Sarah Colton is the author of the book Bad Girl Perfume. Read more about her writing and her work here.
Moonlight in Chiangmai is available as Eau de Parfum in 100 ml, 50 ml, and travel size bottles on the brand’s online shop.
Photos by Sarah M. and myself.
