Myrrh is a fragrant gum resin extracted from Commiphora trees that grow in Somalia, Oman, and Yemen. Its aroma profile is balsamic, woody, and somewhat mineral with facets that vary from camphoric to smoky to metallic. Its pleasant pungency evokes the inside of cathedrals, churches, and haunting sceneries, but also places of meditation and mindfulness.
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Mythological and historical insights into myrrh as a scent and symbol are fascinating.
In her book on the history of perfume, French historian Brigitte Munier describes how in the Bible’s Book of Esther, young women were massaged with myrrh ointments and other vaporized aromas for months, so that the scented concoction could soak and penetrate their body, allowing it to go through an “aromatic metamorphosis”. This process symbolized the transformation from human to divine.
In mythology, young princess Myrrha is turned into a myrrh tree by Aphrodite, as her father, King Cinyras of Cyprus, is about to strike her with an axe. The sap generated from the torn branch hit by the axe reveals a newborn of extraordinary beauty, Adonis, who in Greek mythology symbolizes beauty, love, desire, and, according to Munier’s insights, good smell too.
In perfumery, myrrh can add complexity, sensuality, and longevity to many fragrances, but is usually added sparingly so it doesn’t overpower other olfactory notes and accords. Many have said that myrrh has olfactory hints of its sharper cousin incense, but also of licorice, mushroom, and liquors. I personally find it to have a soothing effect on me when I need to relax, refocus, or rediscover calm.
Below I share a selection of fragrances in which myrrh is more or less protagonist. Some scents highlight its balsamic nature, others masterfully combine it with spices, others only feature it in the opening, others use it to add depth and sensuality to a rounder composition.
Myrrh Casati – Mona di Orio. To my nose this creation expresses the balsamic and somewhat camphoric nature of myrrh, which here is intertwined with incense. Spices are present, but the individual components appear indistinguishable to me. Guaiac wood follows in the dry down with a rubbery, smoky, yet clean and fresh gust. Cypriol and patchouli add earthiness.
Mandala – Masque Milano. In this soulful creation, the spices are prominent with cardamom in the leading role and cinnamon enriching the composition with its piquant sweetness. Here, the myrrh sweetens the incense to create a smooth aura without showing its mentholated quality as much. A go-to fragrance when I need to find some inner peace.
Ambra Aurea – Profumum Roma. Despite playing a supporting role here, the myrrh note is sharper and again reveals its balsamic, mentholated nature. Once again paired with incense, I find its character to be drier, smokier, and more liturgical than in Mandala. As it weaves through amber, which stars here, the fragrance finally settles onto a base of musk and soft resins.
Anubis – Papillon. Myrrh opens this fragrance as a balsamic and resinous cloud, setting the stage for a roaring, biting, new-car leather note. The smoky quality vaguely evokes burning rubber, calling car tires to mind. The fragrance is dark and mysterious, with a hint of spice from the saffron and a light floral accent from the jasmine.
Zoologist Camel. In this mysterious and evocative fragrance, the myrrh note is a sweeter protagonist as it’s enveloped by delectable dates and other dried fruits, cinnamon, and vanilla. Animalic notes, oud, and woods provide depth and dark nuances. Warm and resinous, this is an opulent and luxurious fragrance and a favorite from the line.
Myrrh and Tonka – Jo Malone. This is a soft creation that features a myrrh note that is devoid of any balsamic nuances, but adds depth to the cocoa-like tonka bean note. The lavender conveys an additional velvety layer, instead of a clean and aromatic effect, to the composition. I fell for this crowd pleaser instantly. It is calming, comforting, and sensual.
All fragrances were tested and reviewed from my own samples.
Photos: Sarah McGuire
Source: Mythological and historical hints were taken from my own Italian version of the book “Le parfum à travers les siècles Des dieux de l’Olympe au cyber-parfum” by Brigitte Munier, 2003.
