The main concept of the Italian luxury brand Masque Milano is to compose fragrances inspired by the different “Acts and Scenes” of an olfactory “Opera of Life”. For each Act and Scene, rising star perfumers create “fragrances with a soul” that embody the following: Act 1, experiences; Act II, emotions; Act III, romance and love; Act IV, dreams. (Read about the brand’s philosophy and creations here)
In Act III, Scene II of this scented opera, Romanza evokes the headiness of falling in love, but also seems to incorporate a warning that you may be blinded to that love’s true nature. (In Italian, a “romanza” is a poetic composition typical of Romantic literature)
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Inspired by finely dressed dandies and Oscar Wilde’s Dorian Gray, Romanza was created by Italian nose Cristiano Canali, a former pharmacist with a life-long love for fragrances, who decided to take his passion to the next level by becoming a professional perfumer.
A dark and decadent bouquet, Romanza is crepuscular, ghostly, and heady. It is a biting floral fragrance with a retro character reminiscent of green floral chypres from the past, but with a shadier personality. It is a beautiful union of past tradition and present innovation through a highly original interpretation of the narcissus note.
Dorian Grey appears handsome and impeccably stylish in the candlelight and shadows of an evening soiree, but something debauched and sinister about him is revealed in the light of the new day. Romanza captures this idea with the initial impression of a fresh bouquet at an evening party that you anticipate will wilt the very next day. But, the heady aroma of the decaying flowers reminds you of the intoxication of the night before.
Romanza is a fragrance for special occasions, but cannot be worn every day, the way you would not attend a dissolute party every night. Eventually, that lifestyle would catch up with you and your soul could end up looking like Dorian Gray’s.
“There were moments when he looked on evil simply as a mode through which he could realise his conception of the beautiful.” – The Picture of Dorian Gray, Oscar Wilde.
(Art Institute of Chicago, 1943-44)
Romanza opens with bitter, verdant nuances conveyed by herbaceous absinthe and angelica, their intoxicating sharpness illuminated and uplifted by sunny orange blossoms.
As the scent evolves, an obscure posy of heady narcissuses and gothic violets lifts off my skin. As time passes, I get whiffs of freshly cut stems along with the bouquet’s debauched depth.
Finally, animalic hints are revealed in the dry, woody, amber-rich base to give a decadent, passé vibe, while myrrh conveys a solemn touch.
Notes are listed as they appear on the house’s website:
The Appearance
DANDY’S TOUCH
Absinth (Artemisia), Orange Blossom, Angelica
The Soul
HEDONIST BOUQUET
French Narcissus Abs., Violet Leaves, Jasmine
The Ineluctable
TIME REVENGE
Decadent Woods (Vetiver, Cedarwood, Patchouli), Amber Accord, Myrrh
A note about Romanza from the brand:
“Daylight is breaking in. What time is it? The Green Fairy inspired throughout your nightlong endeavours and now you’re done. Your beautiful subject is still there facing you. …such a beautiful poser… So well dressed, so carefully groomed, so irresistibly debonair, …beautiful and intoxicating… as intoxicating as the indolic smell of the flowers in full bloom, coming from the garden. So weird – only yesterday you were just friends. Bees hopping from one flower to another, perpetuating the amazing circle of life. Butterflies in your stomach. What is going on? What is this vertigo? Overwhelming attraction, stirring you up.
Still you are not in love – yet.
A delightful Italian word describes all this sublimely: Innamoramento”
Romanza is available in 35 ml bottles in select stores.
I reviewed the fragrance from my own full bottle and sample.
Photos by Sarah and myself.
