Launched by Masque Milano in 2019, Kintsugi is inspired by the ancient Japanese art of finely repairing broken pottery, where the fragments are placed back together with a lacquer material blended with gold. This is a technique named kintsukoroi or kintsugi, which is translated into English as “golden repair”.
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Following the example of kintsugi in pottery, the artistic directors and perfumer took apart the traditional chypre concept and put it back together by reinterpreting and giving a modern take to the fragrance. Kintsugi doesn’t include oak or tree moss – materials used as base notes in classical chypre perfumes and later restricted because of IFRA regulations – but patchouli coeur, instead, to convey a chypre-like effect.
I’ve experienced many interpretations of the chypre olfactory family, both traditional and modern, but I have never smelled anything quite like Kintsugi. Its crystalline, refreshing, vaguely salty aroma can fill up a room with its intricate nature and impeccable sophistication.
Magnolia and Rose de Mai petals appear to be blended together to create a brand new radiant flower speckled with tart raspberry leaf and earthy touches of violet leaves. Golden splashes of citrus are present for the entire evolution and not only in the opening, adding brightness throughout the fragrance’s life.
While the patchouli and suede create a fine grainy terracotta vase effect, the luminous florals laced with shiny green leaves and sunny citrus fruit notes connect to the golden mix used to mend the vase, bringing it back to life. In this new life the cracks aren’t disguised or forgotten, but are an important part of the vase’s past and, thus, worth showing.
Later in the dry down, the fragrance becomes lighter and airier, conveying a joyous and uplifting sensation. Kintsugi is an ode to serenity, acceptance of change, regeneration, and reconciliation between the old and the new.
Masque Milano is an Italian brand founded by Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi, and includes fine fragrances created by renowned noses with unique craftsmanship, commitment, and passion. For Kintsugi, Alessandro and Riccardo worked with independent perfumer Vanina Muracciole.
Kintusgi’s note are listed as they appear on the house’s website:
Head Notes: Bergamot E.O., Magnolia China E.O., Savoury Amber
Heart Notes: Golden Suede, Centifolia Rose Grasse abs., Violet Leaves abs.
Base Notes: Benzoin Siam, Raspberry Leaves abs., Patchouli Coeur, Vanilla abs.
I reviewed the fragrance from my personal bottle.
Kintsugi is available for purchase in 35 ml bottles here.
Photo: Sarah McGuire.
