Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie

Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie is a refined and nostalgic fragrance that reminds me of classic leathery violet perfumes, such as Balmain Jolie Madame (read my full review here), and leather chypres, such as the original Trussardi by Trussardi (read my full review here).

Like these creations, Cuir de Russie isn’t only elegantly timeless, but also satisfyingly textural. It’s the sensory experience of running your hand on a cool soft leather purse or a pair of supple suede gloves gently drenched in the remains of a vintage perfume.

Cuir de Russie was created in 1977 by Yuri Gutsatz, founder and perfumer of the original Le Jardin Retrouvé, which he launched in Paris in 1975. Considered a pioneer of niche perfumery, Yuri strived for true creativity and sought to make classic, original creations with fine raw materials.

In 2017, I connected with Michel Gutsatz, Yuri’s son. He mentioned having revived and relaunched his father’s fragrance line just the previous year with his wife Clara Feder, a talented artist. They were joined by Maxence Moutte, a rising young star in perfumery and their in-house nose. After my conversation with Michel, I gladly purchased the discovery set from their online store in Paris and started my Le Jardin Retrouvé olfactory adventure.

All fragrances feature a retro and sophisticated aura, but Cuir de Russie impressed me the most. Created in 1977, Yuri composed this as an ode to the scent of his father’s leather boots, a beloved childhood memory.

Aside from the evident aroma of leather and violets, I don’t find it easy to discern the fragrance’s other notes. The materials are nicely melded to create a perfectly balanced scent profile that exudes regality and sophistication. After a bright opening, the leather and violet backbone is assertive, yet poetic. The composition is elevated by beautiful woods, cinnamon, and ylang ylang, among other notes, imparting warm, sweet, and slightly creamy touches. Mossy and resinous notes come through as the fragrance evolves, conferring a deep, dark, and charming background that grounds the bright and warm notes.

The Cuir De Russie candle is a nice complement to the perfume, which also features notes of leather and violet at the forefront, but with sweeter and creamier facets.

A note from the brand:

“The opera hall is packed. Diaghilev is presenting his Ballets Russes.  Flamboyant Parisians and you are seated in the front row. Wide-eyed, you watch Nijinsky and his soft leather boots. He leaps, he spins, he fills the stage with the bewitching scent of ylang-ylang, violet, and cinnamon enveloping a harmony of cade wood and styrax. You wish that this moment could last forever.”

Inspiration: Ballets Russes, Paris, circa 1912

Indeed, Cuir de Russie is the quintessential “white shirt” and “leather jacket” fragrance that can also be worn for a night at the ballet.

Notes are listed as they appear on the brand’s website and Basenotes:

Top Notes: aldehydes, lemon, lime, petitgrain

Heart Notes: ylang ylang, violet, violet, leaf, cedarwood, styrax

Base Notes: leather, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, vetiver, cinnamon, cade wood, sandalwood

Cuir de Russie is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml (Le Grand Flacon), 15 ml (Le Petit Flacon), and 3 ml mini spray bottles. Discovery sets, fragrance refills, candles, and other scented items are also available. The candle containers in Limoges fine porcelain are both irresistible and reusable.

I reviewed Le Jardin’s Retrouvé’s Cuir de Russie from my personally purchased 15 flacon and sample, and from the candle with the same scent I won as a giveaway kindly offered by Scent Beauty and Le Jardin Retrouvé. I’d like to thank both store and brand for their generosity.

Last year, I was lucky and thrilled to be featured on Le Jardin’s Retrouvé’s blog as part of their Fragrance Lovers Series (read the full interview here).