Jil Croquet Parfum

I really enjoyed getting to know the creations of Jil Croquet Parfum, a small-batch fragrance line founded in early 2021 by Jil Croquet, a French independent perfumer who resides in San Diego, CA.

Jil has always enjoyed visiting new places and discovering different cultures, art, and ancient artifacts. Through her line she seeks to take people on different olfactory journeys by recreating the feelings of adventure, excitement, and happiness associated with going on trips.

The creations are very different from one another, but as I sniffed my way through the entire set, I discovered a bright and joyful common thread that reminds me of sunny San Diego.

My three favorites are Bali by Night, Spring in Kyoto, and Dreamcatcher.

Bali by Night

A crisp and sparkling pear opens this airy fragrance created in honor of Indonesia. I was immediately drawn to this stunning note that has no artificial or grainy sweetness to it. When I asked Jil about it, she confirmed she wanted to reproduce the sensation of “biting into a pear and having the juice drip down your chin”. The fresh pear adorns a soft heart of gardenias, lilies, mimosas, and roses. The fragrance is overall white, cottony, and slightly aquatic. Later in its evolution, the sensation changes as the sandalwood peeks through with its creamy touches. This is an elegant creation that juxtaposes pear’s breezy quality and gardenia’s and sandalwood’s plush character.

Spring in Kyoto

Jil created this fragrance after sniffing branches filled with cherry blossoms, which bloom all over San Diego during the first two weeks of April. Jil used natural hô wood, cinnamon leaf, and lime, among other notes, to create her cherry blossom accord that is verdant and deep with spicy hints. Linden blossom and tea notes add a refreshing impression and a heady bouquet of jasmines, lilies, and hyacinths a heady feeling. I loved the choice of hyacinth, a carnal green floral. Complex yet effortless, this fragrance is an ode to Japan’s delicate beauty.

Dreamcatcher

The rich fir note in the opening provides a woody, earthy density tempered by deep forest fruit undertones brightened by lavender. A touch of fig adds aromatic and green nuances. The fragrance evolves into a dainty and romantic floral heart of iris and peony, and later settles onto a luxurious base of amber and woods. This is a wearable fragrance that pays tribute to the Sioux tribe and its culture and heritage.

These are my reflections on the other fragrances.

Great Wall Valley

When I first spritzed this on my skin, I thought of tart green apples but I did not see this note listed. So, I reached out to Jil to ask for more details. She confirmed there was no apple, but mentioned that the tart sensation could be conveyed by the lychee and cut grass accords, which include rose, blackberry, and raspberry with a hint of rotten cabbage (yes!) to bring the lychee’s juiciness to life. Dedicated to the lychee trees that grow in China, this fragrance is bright and uplifting. Update: this fragrance is a finalist in the Artisan Category of the 2022 Art and Olfaction Awards.

Plato’s Tale

Intended as a tribute to the ocean, this fragrance embodies a collection of aromas that evoke specific memories and contrasting sensations. At first spray it evokes eating freshly sliced pineapple by a breezy seashore. When I visited Brazil years ago, they often served a variety of the fruit that looked white – it smelled and tasted sweet, but also a little metallic. The pineapple note here is realistic and reminiscent of that scent. As the fragrance evolves, the sensation changes completely and the fragrance becomes slightly sharper, reminding me of the addictive aroma of paint or polish.

Fresh Morning

Described as pure and simplistic, this fragrance is centered around a linear composition that uses bergamot, rose, and vetiver. It is dedicated to calm mornings in the countryside. On me it’s a little pungent, a sensation I am guessing might be caused by vetiver when used in larger quantities. Nevertheless, this is the line’s bestseller and still worth trying.

Library of Alexandria

Dedicated to the city of Alexandria in Egypt and its sumptuous library, this creation opens with a beautiful orange blossom note with spicy hints. Over time it intensifies, but comes across as too sweet and powdery on my skin. I plan on trying it again during colder months.

All fragrances’ notes, accords, and available sizes are listed on the line’s website.

I sampled all Jil Croquet Parfum fragrances from a discovery set kindly provided to me by Jil Croquet. All opinions are my own.

Interview

Jil graciously agreed to talk with me and answer my questions about her concepts, ideas, and creations. (Answers have been condensed for clarity)

 

Q. Jil, can you talk a little more about your line’s inspirations?

Jil: Through my fragrances, I allow people to discover exotic countries, different cultures, amazing landscapes, and ancient traditions. Each perfume puts the spotlight on one or two materials typical of a place or era, and builds a story around it, forging lasting memories and genuine emotions. I focus on high quality, persistence, and uniqueness.

Q. Tell me a little about yourself. I understand you’re originally from France. How did you get into the industry? Are you classically trained?

Jil: I was born and raised in Versailles, near Paris, but I am not classically trained in perfumery. I have a Master’s degree in business and worked for 10 years in marketing for the food industry. I developed products for a big bread company in Paris and I constantly had my nose in baguettes, croissants, and pastries. However, I was not pleased with mass production and environmental exploitation, so I started to question what I really wanted to do in life. When I moved to the USA and realized The Institute for Art and Olfaction was so close to my house in San Diego, I started to attend classes and events. I also talked with perfumers, read books on fragrances, and followed bloggers and reviewers.

Q. How did you get into the industry and what brought you to California?

Jil: I came to California in 2018 after my husband took a job in San Diego. We wanted to travel and live abroad, so I was happy to follow him when we had the opportunity. I initially worked as a marketing manager, but I was furloughed for 5 months due to COVID-19 in 2020. Therefore, I decided to focus on learning perfumery by attending events at The Institute for Art and Olfaction. I finally decided to launch a brand in February 2021 with the support of my husband, family, and friends.

Q. Tell me more about your eco-conscious concept. Do you use naturals, synthetics, or mixed media in your fragrances?

Jil: I am in my thirties and part of a generation that falls between that of my parents, who lived a great life but did not know they were deteriorating the planet, and today’s youth, who are fighting to protect the environment. So, I focus on eco-friendly practices. I avoid plastic or cellophane wrapping for packing products, and I only use paper sleeves to close my boxes. In the future I plan to develop refill pouches. I include large proportions of naturals in my formulations, but because some of them are endangered and might cause allergies, I use safe synthetics instead. Some natural materials I love are rose and jasmine absolutes and fir balsam, but all of my formulations comply with IFRA regulations.

Q. What is your fondest scent memory?

Jil: My father had a garden with white, pink, and red roses, geraniums, lilacs, and wisterias, so these are some of my favorites scents. I remember we had a huge fir tree, so fir balsam is one of my favorite materials to work with. I love its fresh, dark, dry, woody aroma with berry nuances. It is costly and hard to work with and this is why it’s rarely used in perfumery. I used generous amounts of it in Dreamcatcher. I also loved the smell of ivy growing up; each time I smell folione® – a raw material used by Givaudan- I always think of it.

Q. Do you have mentors or role models?

Jil: I am grateful to Saskia Wilson-Brown of The Institute for Art and Olfaction who has created an exceptional environment around art and scents by organizing chats with perfumers, classes, and conferences. Master perfumer Jean Claude Ellena is an amazing inspiration with his clear, simple, and beautiful formulas. I like to compare him to Leonardo da Vinci, with his perfection through simple lines and pure beauty. I also really admire Josh Meyer from the niche brand Imaginary Authors. He reminds me of Kandinsky because he creates rich and complex scents with a narrative.

Q. What are your hopes and dreams for Jil Croquet Parfum?

Jil: I would love to expand my line by creating scents about other countries. I already have ideas for France, Spain, Belgium, and Persia. The next step is to create pouches for my refillable bottles and even involve customers in the refill process. I would also like to create simpler scents perhaps by using media like bath salts or room sprays. I want to continue to bring happiness to people through great quality scents.

Photos are my own or kindly provided by Jil, as indicated.