Guerlain Chamade

In March 2023, I wrote about hyacinths and reflected on their unique scent in nature and perfume. I highlighted some of my favorite classic fragrances featuring the hyacinth note but didn’t include Guerlain Chamade. Although I had tried the fragrance before, I never owned it or fully experienced its essence.

Later that spring, I had the opportunity to sample the 2020 reformulation of the Eau de Toilette (from Les Legendaires collection) at a perfume store in La Spezia, Italy. I immediately bought a bottle. Fast forward to the summer of 2023, I was visiting Rieti, also in Italy, and the city where I was born. I went to my favorite store for rare and vintage treasures, which has been serving customers for over a century. While looking around, I stumbled upon a bottle from 1991 (also Eau de Toilette) and bought that too.

In both versions, Chamade seamlessly blends the polished and abstract quality of a chypre with the luxurious allure of an opulent amber. It captures the nostalgic and velvet feel of cosmetic powders thanks to the richness of orris, sandalwood, and vanilla, notes that are part of the legendary “Guerlinade” accord. However, there is also a composed, almost austere feel that transcends the typical scent of fragrances that evoke makeup. The hyacinth accord creates a dreamy and elegant ambiance; its green, spicy, and slightly astringent quality beautifully balances the layers of powdery opulence.  Other floral notes, such as rose and ylang ylang, are part of the mix, but I can’t clearly distinguish them.

The contrast between the 2020 and 1991 editions is evident from the start. The older version is heavier, dustier, instantly recalling timeless lavishness. The new version is thinner and lighter, accentuating the green and bitter facets of hyacinth. As they settle, both fragrances become powdery, but the older version has a more luxurious, almost unctuous character with a subtle hint of soapiness. In the newer version, the “dirtier” elements have been stripped out, leaving behind a trail of fine talcum powder.

The notes below are from the 1969 original, as listed in Barbara Herman’s blog, Yesterday’s Perfume and her book, Scent & Subversion – Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume:

Top: Hyacinth, jasmine

Heart: Turkish rose, ylang-ylang, blackcurrant bud, galbanum, lilac, lily of the valley

Base: Vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean, vetiver, amber, iris

Chamade was originally created in 1969 by Paul Guerlain in honor of the novel, La Chamade, by Françoise Sagan. Known for her romantic themes, Sagan also co-wrote the screenplay of the movie, also titled La Chamade, starring Catherine Deneuve. Chamade, in French, is the use of a drum or trumpet to signal surrender or the rhythmic pounding of one’s heart.

The featured photo was taken by me.

Both fragrances are from my personal collection (purchased).