When I tried Under My Skin on my wrist for the first time two years ago, I sensed a familiarity I couldn’t quite put my finger on. I thought of perfumes of the past but without identifying any in particular, of soft and lacy fabrics, of intimate moments. I couldn’t recognize any specific notes and I didn’t attempt to. And I loved it that way. I dabbed some on a mouillette and kept it on my desk so it could keep me company as I wrote.
As I keep wearing Under My Skin, I always seem to discover a new nuance and I feel like I can’t quite do justice to its loveliness, depth, and complexity by describing it. In any case I will try.
A light and fluffy cloud of lavender surrounds the smoothest iris butter, which I detect as both powdery and slightly unctuous; along with the floral notes, the lavender and orris, respectively, brighten and soften the animalic and leather notes. Balsams and ambergris add deep and dark strokes. What others have perceived on me, after the fragrance settles for several hours, is a veil of dark cocoa powder with warm spices, a sensation that may be conveyed by the combination of woods, black pepper, and carnation. Tonka bean and vanilla add a sweet, hypnotic touch.
This scent is soft like a cashmere sweater, smooth like a pearl, and warm like human skin.
Francesca described Under My Skin’s concept as an “interpretation of the animalic theme” and “as if the scent emanates from the skin”, skin I imagine as being heated and flushed after a close encounter.
So far, this is my favorite of the line’s unique creations and has quickly become one of my signature scents. I say so far because I still haven’t tried The Dark Side and Lost in Heaven, which both very much inspire me.
Francesca’s opulent leitmotif, which subtly connects all of her fragrances, pervades this carnal creation. Its dark, mysterious, and powdery character is a tribute to tradition while being perfect for modern days too. This is a scent with amazing projection and persistence, lasting on my skin longer than 12 hours.
The notes are listed as they appear on the house’s website:
Grapefruit, Lavender, Black Pepper, Spices, Bulgarian Rose, Carnation, Iris Butter, Musk, Castoreum, Ambergris, Leather Accord, Costus, Tonka Bean, Tolu Balsam, Peru Balsam, Sandal Mysore, Vanilla, Treemoss.
The fragrance is available as Extrait de Parfum in 30 ml spray bottles on Francesca Bianchi’s website and in select niche perfumeries.
I reviewed the fragrance from my personal bottle.
Photo: my own.
