Esxence 2025 – MASTERS OF DREAMS

Esxence 2025 was all about delightful scent fantasies. It was a tribute to the perfumers, scent designers, and other keepers of fragrant stories who can draw discerning enthusiasts into scented tales and dreamscapes. This event was also special because it marked the 15^th edition of this immersive international fragrant event in Milan, the largest in Europe.

With 384 fragrance brands, 13,500 attendees, and brands from 38 different countries, I was, once again, beautifully swept away. Despite the crowds, I still found that navigating the event and connecting with most people behind the brands was, for the most part, smooth, easy, and inspiring. Getting there right at opening time helped me and my partners in crime to start our day smoothly without feeling rushed or too overwhelmed.

Much like in 2023, I made a list of brands I wanted to explore in advance, so I could try to stay (relatively) focused. However, there were still plenty of surprises and serendipitous encounters.

I’m excited to dive in!

Ingredients and Notes of the Fair

The exhibition on Calabrian bergamot by Accademia del Profumo offered a beautiful exploration of the varieties of this renowned citrus, with informative facts on their unique scent profiles. We could learn all about bergamot’s cultivation, harvesting, and the process to extract essential oils, valued for their zesty, refreshing fragrance.

The fair showcased an array of unusual gourmand fragrances, many of which were new to me, but not necessarily newly released or in preview. Several fragrances beautifully highlighted uniquely specific food and drink. The starchy, nutty, slightly sapid aroma of rice was featured in fragrances such as Jijide’s Riso, Meo Fusciuni’s Sogni, Affiniscence’s Santal Basmati, and d’Annam’s White Rice. Fragrances that creatively showcased beverages also left a lasting impression. Parfums Dusita’s brand-new release Tonka Latte was inspired by the perfumer’s luxurious habit of sipping a latte to ease into a busy day.

J-Scent’s Hanamizake combines the silky and refreshing flavor of sake with the delicate floralcy of cherry blossoms. We could also dive into gourmand fragrances, which gave life to decadent desserts in scent form. From chewy mochi (d’Annam’s Strawberry Mochi) to a French patisserie trio (Parfums de Nicolaï’s Pavlova, Macaron Burbon, and Saint Honoré) to a bold twist on licorice candy (Bruno Perruci’s Sublimizia), these fragrances are a delight for anyone who loves a unique take on a  gourmand.

Fun and distinctive fruity notes stood out, with the Fugazzi stand leading the charge, a vibrant farmer’s market filled with real fresh fruit, complete with a vending machine offering 10 ml travel-size vials of the refreshing Orange Crush.

Banana emerged as the queen of the fair, with fragrances featuring notes of banana bread in Born to Stand Out’s Nanatopia and The House of Oud’s L’Explicite, banana pudding in 27 87’s Hakuna Matata, and a tart banana-berry opening for Jacques Fath’s Musc Couture. The banana note was apparently in Banana Oud by Maie Piou, too, but I didn’t get a chance to try.

And there were peaches! Of note was Sarah Baker’s Peach Trilogy (by Chris Maurice), which proved to be irresistible and only seemingly sweet, highlighting dark themes of vanity, betrayal, and poison. Peach was also featured along with coconut in Idilios, Cristiano Canali’s latest creation for Rubini. Floral notes and modern takes on classic olfactory families couldn’t be overlooked.

Noteworthy new offerings included two remarkable tuberoses, the luminous Eshal by Neela Vermeire and the honey-laden Regina Vergine by Cristian Cavagna.

Newly launched moody, dark florals such as the smoky rose, Vanant by In Astra, and the dark orange blossom, Hypnorange by Coreterno, were also worth getting our noses on.

I stopped at the Acca Kappa stand and tried their ethereal florals; Tilia Cordata (linden blossom), Calycanthus (calycanthus flower), and Sakura Tokyo (cherry blossom) offered a gentle and breezy experience.

The fougères by Frassaï (Ajedrez) and Francesca Bianchi (The Code of Emotion) are modern classics I’ll surely be spending more time with.

I also explored the contemplative power of incense. Some fragrances showcasing this note were new launches, such as Meo Fusciuni’s Buio, while others were new to me, including In Astra’s Mismar, Perris Monte Carlo’s Encens Sacré, and the Memento collection by Filippo Sorcinelli (entirely dedicated to the incense of the basilicas and cathedrals in Italy).

Fragrant Atmospheres

Many of my favorite finds were ones that created distinct atmospheres, moods, and experiences. Whether it was the edgy urban flair of Underground Vibes by Laboratorio Olfattivo or the evocative scented landscapes of Source Adage, there was truly something to satisfy every nose that enjoys a unique olfactory path.

Ermano Picco and Barbara Loddo of Agarthi Scent Core took us on an imaginative journey to the hypnotic center of Planet Earth with Magnetic Maze, a fragrance featuring pollen-rich, buzzing mimosa, warm labdanum, and feral Cambodian oud. Smelling the ingredients used to create the fragrance was a welcome perk.

Enduring Classics

One of my favorite parts of Esxence are the exhibitions organized by The Osmotheque, the archive that has preserved precious scent memories by storing thousands of historic perfumes for the past 30 years or so.

This year the organization showcased the fragrances that left an indelible mark during the marvelous Roaring Twenties. I had the pleasure of smelling iconic perfumes such as Emeraude by Coty (1921), Nuit de Noël by Caron (1923), and Crêpe de Chine by Millot (1925).

And I saw the original bottles of the stunning Amour Amour by Jean Patou (1925) and the highly problematic Golli Wogg by Vigny (1925). The Vigny fragrance reminded us that things weren’t just about elegance and glamorous in the past, and that we should take lessons from that past to improve our present and future. Marie Urban le Febvre and Alexandra Bachand were insightful and welcoming hosts, guiding us through this moving and insightful exhibition with their expert knowledge.

Around the World

The event included brands from 38 different countries, several of which extended beyond the perfumes from the Western world. These brands introduced exciting ingredients and flavors from various parts of the world, including Japan (Miya Shinma, J-Scent), Vietnam (d’Annam), Singapore  (The LAB Fragrances), West Senegal (Reserve en Afrique), and Barbados (Blackcliff Parfums). The inclusion of brands from underrepresented areas broadens our horizons, allowing us to experience the world’s vast and varied olfactory culture in ways that were once unexplored or overlooked.

Brands, Perfumes, and Encounters

I was excited to finally try the creations by Eau de Boujee, Jijide, Parfum d’Empire, MiN New York, and Thomas de Monaco. These brands are truly remarkable, showcasing unique offerings and presented by kind, knowledgeable people who enthusiastically walked us through their collections. I was happy and honored to meet Neela Vermeire, Tomoo Inaba, Sarah Baker, Nick Gilbert, Ermano Picco, and Michele Marin.

Hugging friends from some of my favorite brands was another highlight: Barbara Herman of Eris Parfums, Natalia Outeda of Frassaï, Pissara Umavijani of Dusita, and Clara Feder of Le Jardin Retrouvé. The fair was busy and bustling, and we didn’t have much time to talk, but I appreciated the opportunity to reconnect.

It can be difficult to genuinely fall in love with any fragrance when you sniff all day long, but a few creations stood out. Gilded by Eau de Boujee instantly captivated me with its use of glimmering aldehydes, saffron, beeswax, and resins to mimic the texture of gold. In Astra Betelgeuse is an addictive chypre featuring an elegant blend of iris and coffee. The brand-new Oltre by Jijide charmed me with its evocation of beauty rituals at a vanity, filled with the scents of face powders, violet lipsticks, and rose water.

Un Bel Amour D’été by Parfum d’Empire caught my attention even though gardenia is always a challenging note for me. The addition of cumin enhances the scent’s sensuality, creating a “salty skin” feel that complements the airiness of this intoxicating white flower.

Marlou’s newest releases are enticing additions to their edgy collection. Doliphor brings together the clean and the dirty, suggesting the smell of milky, slightly sweaty skin in contact with a crisp white shirt. Héliodose combines sun-kissed tiaré flowers with bitter, crunchy, green galbanum and erotic musk.

My suitcase was packed with samples of these delightful fragrances, so I’m excited to find even more favorites as I make my way through them.

I navigated the fair with my fragrant friends: Sarah (also this blog’s fabulous photographer), Claudia, Francesca, and Luca. I also met or reconnected with other wonderful fragrance writers and content creators: Ida, Kathleen, Hilde, Kanako, Danu, and Sarah.

Outside the Fair

Gatherings and events outside Esxence were just as exciting as the fair itself, and I was happy to be part of few.

On the first day of the fair, we took time to attend a private sniffing session at the Meliá Hotel with Marie-Pierre Blanchette (perfumer and creative director) and Pep Dalessandri (fragrance evaluator) of MISKEO, an indie brand based in Germany I’d been meaning to try since it launched a couple of years ago. A few others and I gathered to smell their entire collection along with some of the ingredients included in the fragrances. Daim is my favorite, with Épices as a close second. We also got a sneak peek into fragrances that are in the works, but I’m not allowed to reveal anything!

An aperitif hosted by Thomas de Monaco on the Friday evening at the chic Hotel NH Collection Milano CityLife was another highlight. Thomas is the visionary creative director of the brand that carries his own name and a gracious spirit. The event was a nice mix of elegance and innovation, with Thomas introducing three new fragrances created in collaboration with three young perfumers: Fleur Danger, Jade Amour, and Neo Eden. While many of the guests I talked to seemed to be captivated by the playful peachy spirit of Neo Eden, I found myself drawn to the aldehydic sparkle of Fleur Danger. It was an evening filled with excitement, beautiful scents, delicious finger food, lively conversation, and generous gifts.

My final off-Exsence event was the presentation of Antonio Alessandria’s latest perfume at La Nicchia, a lovely fragrance store in Legnano, near Milan. Pluvia Sacra is a perfumer’s ode to the cherry wood crucifix (Crocifisso) from 1540, which is housed at the San Martino Church in Randazzo, Sicily. The fragrance is a soft mix of sandalwood, amyris, and white flowers, brightened by crunchy notes of celery and galbanum, all expertly blended to evoke the sensation of the ancient wooden crucifix in the rain.

Antonio’s exceptional storytelling brings Sicily to life, immersing you in its scents and culture through his own personal gaze and experiences. Store owners and fragrance experts, Laura and Silvia, welcomed us warmly and entertained us with their knowledge and humor.

Final Thoughts

I always like to share tips for those who’d like to attend the event in the future.

Wear super comfortable shoes and dress in layers because it gets very hot very quickly! Carry a light backpack or tote, throw in pens and paper, and consider having business cards to help you network and keep in touch with people. The food is quite good at the restaurant in the fair pavilion, but I suggest getting in line before 1 pm to avoid the crowds. Bring extra mouillettes (blotters) in case the brands run out at their stands!

Share your thoughts about the fair or feel free to reach out questions!

Words by Damiana. Photos by Sarah.