Launched by Barbara Herman in 2016 and named after Eris, the Greek goddess of discord, Eris Parfums is a line inspired by subversive, unusual beauty and includes a collection of six fragrances created by nose Antoine Lie under Barbara’s creative vision.
A writer and editor by trade, Barbara Herman is the author of “Yesterday’s Perfume”, a popular blog on vintage perfumes, and of “Scent and Subversion, Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume”, a book on vintage perfumes that was highly praised by celebrities such as Dita Von Teese and Chandler Burr.
In her book, Barbara illustrates how vintage perfumes popular in the early years of the twentieth century were bolder and not as strictly driven by gender conventions as modern formulations. These perfumes were more avant-garde despite being created in more repressed times, so she spent years collecting, researching, and wearing them.
Barbara’s genderfluid and timeless view of perfume developed from this extensive experience has inspired the Eris line, whose fragrances have a vintage vibe interpreted in modern key and primarily include animalic and other unconventional notes.
I met Barbara in 2019 during the launch of the Eris Parfums line at the Dallas niche fragrance store, The Scent Room, and I was lucky to be able to try Mxxx., which spoke to me immediately. Mxxx. is a more carnal and enticing interpretation of her fragrance Mx., named after the gender-neutral title used instead of “Ms.” or “Mr.” and known for its spicy, woody, animalic character.
Mxxx. combines the dark marine character of ambergris with the most luscious bitter cacao, the smoothest vanilla, and the loveliest blend of spices and other animalic notes.
Ambergris is the undisputed queen of this creation and instantly manifests itself with a majestically salty and mineral aura. As the fragrance develops, rich cacao and lush vanilla swirl together and envelope the ambergris to create a suave, cool effect that wraps my skin like sheer satin. The hyraceaum and styrax add a soft animalic nuance that conveys a quiet, elegant complexity. A spicy edge is added by ginger, pink pepper, and saffron, which remain in the background.
In cooler weather, the salty ambergris has a subtle camphoric undertone. In the summer heat, the composition becomes sweeter, but is equally enveloping, sumptuous, and sexy without being overpowering. This alluring fragrance is salty and sweet, warm and cool, with hints that recall lightly flushed human skin.
Mxxx. has good sillage and when I spray it in the morning it stays with me well into the evening.
The notes are listed as they appear on the Eris Parfums website:
Top: Madagascan Blue Ginger, Mace (CO2 extraction), Saffron, Ethiopian Olibanum, Pink Peppercorn.
Heart: Trinidad Cacao (ultrasound extraction), VirginiaCedarwood, Sandalwood.
Base: Haitian Vetiver, Indonesian Patchouli, Laotian Benzoin, Castoreum, 7% Natural Ambergris, Pierre d’Afrique (Hyraceum), Madagascan Green Vanilla (ultrasound extraction).
Below are some of the precious raw materials included in Mxxx.:
- Ambergris, ethically sourced, tinctured, aged, 7% concentration – I had the pleasure of trying this in its raw form during the Eris Parfums launch at The Scent Room
- Pierre d’Afrique (African Stone or Hyraceum), ethically sourced
- Cacao from Trinidad and Tobago, selected with the help of a French artisanal chocolatier for its unique dark and spicy quality
- Madagascan Green Vanilla, extracted by ultrasound
I reviewed Mxxx. from a sample that was kindly gifted to me by Barbara Herman and from my own full bottle.
Mxxx. is available as Extrait de Parfum (Limited Edition) in 50 ml bottles.
Photos by Sarah.
