DSH Paper White was an accidental discovery. When my friend Sarah and I were trying to figure out what she could remember from childhood about her mother’s perfume, we thought about fragrances with narcissus. That reminded me of a sample of DSH Paper White I had that was included from another order. Sarah tried it and it was love at first sniff.
In perfumery, narcissus, also known as daffodil or jonquil, is highly versatile and conjures a multifaceted olfactory profile that includes green tones, a hay-like dryness, subtle sweet florals, a rich texture, and warm musky nuances. We both love it because it reminds us of the past.
For Sarah, it evokes childhood memories of her mother. There is something about the dry warmth that is reminiscent of cotton on skin, while still maintaining a floral hint of getting ready for an evening out. It produces a combination of that excitement in watching your mother get ready for a special occasion and getting a peek into a mysterious adult world, while still being familiar and comforting. Her mother also bought a daffodil painting by a local artist that Sarah has stolen for her own walls that could be companion image to the scent of Paper White.
My own memories of narcissus are more visual like Sarah’s painting, but are also clearly associated to happy times and contentment. I vividly remember the fields of daffodils in England when I was young. When I think about those bright yellow flower fields, I remember day trips with my family to the York Castle Museum, one of my favorites growing up.
While the narcissus in Masque Milano Romanza is undisputedly gothic and decadent (read my full review here) and the one in Francesca Bianchi Cuir Soyeux is leather-cloaked and orris-laced (read my full review here), the narcissus in DSH Paper White is pure and luminous and evokes bright atmospheres.
Inspired both by the smell of paper white narcissus flowers and high-quality paper, DSH Paper White is a synesthetic creation reminiscent of white gauze-like linen, warm wrinkled sheets, and the creamy feel of a string of pearls.
Initially, the fragrance is crisp and bitter, with shimmering citrus touches and bergamot-scented tea wafts. The Early Grey Natural accord seems to impart a dry aromatic quality I found instantly uplifting and satisfying.
Soon, the jonquil absolute creates the scent of white daffodils as they bloom and unfold, their aroma dewy and carnal with hints of cut grass. Dawn also included both sweet and heady narcissus absolute and an airy and spring-like green narcissus accord to form a realistic and complex floral character. The petals are flecked with papyrus and rice paper, which call to mind the textural, sheer sensation of cool, pristine white sand on the skin.
Suede-like orris and nutty sandalwood come together as a cozy and heartening presence, like an enveloping soft coat and like the roasted, yeasty aroma of bread that lingers after baking.
DSH Paper White is a modern floral chypre that offers a pleasing harmony of opposing forces and that combines sophistication and comfort. Cool and warm notes along with sweet and lightly salted ones are seamlessly blended on a background of earthy, deep forest-like green oakmoss.
The fragrance’s notes and accords are listed as they appear on the line’s website:
Australian Sandalwood, Bergamot, Earl Grey Natural (accord), Grandiflorum Jasmine, Green Narcissus (accord), Green Oakmoss, Iris/Orris, Jonquil Absolute, Mysore Sandalwood, Marcissus Absolute, Papyrus, Rice Paper (accord), Tunisian Neroli.
The fragrance is available in different versions and sizes on the DSH website.
DSH Perfumers is owned by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, one of the first independent perfumers I had the pleasure of discovering a few years ago. I have been lucky to try many of her fragrances and I look forward to more.
The fragrance was reviewed from Damiana’s and Sarah’s personally purchased samples and bottles.
Photos by Sarah.
