My initial experiences with osmanthus as a note in perfumery were pleasant and enjoyable, but always in a sweet, apricot-like solifore presentation. I grew to like this presentation, but after trying Auphorie Miyako, I realized how added complexity to osmanthus, with smoky and leathery undertones, was something I could truly love. Its exotic power and charming character ended up winning me over after a few tries.
A slightly piercing and bitter yuzu opening introduces Miyako and is quickly followed by the scent of fuzzy apricot and peach skins. What comes next is a gentle waft of fuming green tea. Assertively floral and pleasantly bitter, this tea is redolent of East Asia tea ceremonies.
In the fragrance’s heart, osmanthus is entwined with a prominent leather note that to me smells more like soft suede. As it dries down, I perceive lightly smoky and sharp accents, perhaps conveyed by woods and patchouli, and a dash of burned caramel with hints of incense, perhaps conveyed by the katsura leaf note. Musk adds a silky touch. On my skin, the fragrance becomes a little powdery over time.
As a fascinatingly smooth fragrance that brings together impressions of fruity, floral, and leather nuances, Miyako cannot be clearly defined by any particular olfactory family. It elegantly builds on the simpler osmanthus presentations I experienced in the past, but also adds depth without betraying the note’s effect.
The fragrance conveys a natural bitter-sweet effect that is quite rare to find in perfumery.
The Malaysian house Auphorie was founded by two brothers, Eugene and Emrys Au, who design and create handcrafted fragrances using fine raw materials such as precious woods and incenses. Named after “Au” combined with the French word “euphorie” (translated as euphoria), Auphorie honors old traditions, cultures, and memories while designing each fragrance using modern approaches.
Because Eugene and Emrys produce their orders in small batches, each creation is generally released as a limited edition. A winner of the Arts and Olfaction awards in 2016, Miyako was highly praised by many since its launch and, thus, was added to Auphorie’s permanent collection.
The notes appear as they are listed on the house’s website:
Apricot, Yuzu, Peach, Japanese Golden Osmanthus (Kin Mokusei), Jasmine Green Tea, Leather, Precious Woods (Hinoki, Cedar, Sandalwood), Patchouli, Katsura Leaf, Silken Musk.
I reviewed Miyako from my own Extrait de Parfum 30 ml bottle.
Miyako is currently available as Extrait de Parfum in 40 ml bottles.
The picture is my own.
