Many of us search for perfumes that are reminiscent of make-up accords because they evoke memories of sniffing and playing with lipsticks, creams, eye shadows, or face powders that belonged to the women close to us. One of my favorite activities was to go through my mom’s purses looking for forgotten lipsticks. I don’t remember their color; however, their silky texture and aroma of roses and violets with hints of wax or powder made a long-lasting impression. When I read in several blogs and forums that Anatole Lebreton’s Incarnata reminded many fragrance lovers of old lipsticks, I went ahead and bought a bottle blindly.
And I wasn’t disappointed.
At first sniff comes a dark and enigmatic violet with a hint of tart raspberries. In the background, a minty, vegetal breeze gently blows along with woody undertones- an effect probably brought by the rhododendron. I was initially reminded of olives, the Italian black cured type, but as I continue to sniff, I also detect a faint anise aroma. This adds uniqueness to the fragrance but doesn’t take away from the old-fashioned lipstick quality I clearly get. Over time, the violet persists and the raspberry fades.
The orris root and cosmetic accord must be adding the powdery dash I detect throughout the perfume’s life, while suede, vanilla, and benzoin soften the composition.
If Zoologist Nightingale reminds me of impalpable face powder, silk, and lace, Incarnata calls to mind pasty retro lipstick, suede gloves, and feathers (the addition of the feather in the package is a delightful touch).
Incarnata was created by perfumer and founder of the line Anatole Lebreton, who started working in the fragrance industry as a blogger.
I enjoy Incarnata’s intimate and enveloping character, as well as its incredible persistence.
The notes are listed as they appear on the house’s website:
Raspberry, Violet, Rhododendron
Cosmétic Accord, Orris, Myrrh, Rose
Amber, Suede, Benzoin, Vanilla.
The fragrance is available as Eau de Parfum in 50ml spray bottles.
I reviewed the fragrance from my personal bottle.
Photos: the first was taken by Sarah McGuire; the second is my own.
