Esxence 2023 – IRIDESCENT: First Impressions and Newly Discovered Brands

With the beautiful backdrop of Milan in springtime, sun shining and cherry blossoms blooming, my first Esxence event was a whirlwind of olfactory experiences, installations, colors, people, and diversity.

This year’s theme was IRIDESCENT, a play on words that winked at the connection between the kaleidoscope of scents and colors we experience in life. The shimmering technicolor wall at the entrance of the MiCo congress center aptly embodied that connection and Esxence truly exuded iridescent energy!

With over 300 fragrance brands to choose from, my senses were nicely overwhelmed, but I was somehow expecting more chaos. I found the fair to be quite organized and the brands overall easy to find. I was also expecting to have more trouble connecting with the people behind the brands, but the opportunities to have a conversation and try the fragrances arrived with a little patience and a pinch of persistence.

Knowing what I wanted to sniff in advance helped me focus, but I also loved being surprised. When the booths I wanted to visit were crowded, I stopped by those that were wide open at that same serendipitous moment. This is how I discovered lines like Gini Parfums and got to talk to inspiring and talented perfumers like Jean-Michel Duriez and Catherine Omai, to name a few.

In this first article, I will highlight the brands that were new to me. This includes the houses I had read about and was looking forward to trying, but also those I hadn’t heard of before. I will end with a few lessons learned and tips on how to navigate the event.

Carlotha Ray

Known for its shoes and slides created with plant-derived latex, this brand was one of the pleasant surprises of Esxence. The fragrance collection celebrates luxury, diversity, and sustainability through light and refined nature-inspired creations. Of the three fragrances I tried, my favorite was the crystalline Rose and Gardenia, but I also couldn’t stop sniffing my wrist after spraying the effortless Poire and Santal Blanc. The scents are perfectly showcased by lightweight and beautifully decorated glass flacons. The highlight of my visit was meeting and talking with Jean Michel Duriez, master perfumer and former in-house nose for Jean Patou and Rochas.

Christele Jacquemin

The house is named after founder and perfumer, Christele Jacquemin, a French photographer who captures her travel destinations with fragrant gems that elegantly feature nature, harmony, and slow living. Christele paired each creation with one of her stunning photos and guided us through her entire collection. I instantly loved Impermanence, which honors the tranquility of the Chinese village of Jin Ze with refreshing notes of bergamot and ginger, uplifting herbs, a hint of green rose, and the vegetal bitterness of yerba mate.

Gini Parfum

I had read about Gini in two Italian fragrance groups but had not had the opportunity to try them until now. Born into a family of winemakers, Francesco Gini crafted a few of his fragrances as odes to famous wines, while others were inspired by nature, beautiful cities, and faraway lands. Francesco’s passion and good humor were contagious as he spoke about the entire collection. At first sniff, my two personal favorites were the rich and enveloping Nuvola d’Oriente and the green and breezy Canto Libero.

Laboratorio Olfattivo

The citrus creations of Viaggio in Italia by Jean-Claude Ellena have piqued my interest for a long time. Indeed, these were some of my favorite discoveries at Esxence. Mandarino, Arancia Rossa, and the new release, Pompelmo, were instant loves and took me right back to the days of my Italian childhood. I loved the brand’s booth setup with the elegant fans spritzed with every fragrance. Honorable mentions go to Nerosa and Alambar.

Lorenzo Pazzaglia

It is safe to say that Lorenzo Pazzaglia’s booth was one of the most visited of the event. This brand is so popular that you could hardly walk past the crowds. However, Lorenzo was always present, greeting everyone with friendly warmth and never turning anyone down. He talked about his concepts and materials, and shared sneak peeks of future releases. One of the women who works for the brand kindly described every single creation to me, spritzing each one liberally. His fragrances are assertive, hypnotic, and rarely go unnoticed, with instant favorites being Van py Rhum and Choco Raptor. I also enjoyed Cherry Ink and the Sea series, but I will try them all on skin in the coming weeks.

Maison de L’Asie

Inspired by the stories and emotions evoked by three Asian countries, this brand was founded by Elizabeth Liau, who highlighted the three chapters (Nanyang, Bali, and Bangkok) with graceful enthusiasm. The lovely cards depicting the images that match each scent used for testing were a unique touch that elevated the experience. Highlights for me were the tea-centered Nanyang, the lush rose Les Nuits de Bali, and the mysterious incense Les Soirs de Siam.

Maison Violet

I was beyond excited to try the creations by Maison Violet, the classic French house revived in 2018 by friends Anthony, Paul, and Victorien. They work with Nathalie Lorson and other perfumers to deliver fragrances that are both elegant and intriguing. I am always drawn to brands that reinterpret vintage perfumery through a modern lens and I wasn’t disappointed. I sampled all the fragrances on mouillettes, but I also spritzed the translucent iris beauty, Nuée Bleue, on skin. After Esxence, I tried the powdery and airy Pourpre d’Autumn on skin as well, and I am slowly making my way through the entire line. More to come.

Manos Gerakinis

I was especially excited to try Rose Poetique, which I found to be lovely and bold. The other wonderful discovery was MEƟEXIS (pronounced “Methexis”, a type of Greek theater performance that involves the audience). This is a delicious dry fig dipped in honey and dusted with cocoa and cinnamon. Green and woody notes balance out the sweetness. I also got a sniff of Citrine, a rich and animalic limited edition. Manos was very welcoming and generous in sharing his love for scent and inspirations.

Rosae Virtus

This brand-new collection launched by a botanist features four rose-centered fragrances inspired by rose hybrids produced near Padova in northern Italy. Each fragrance is paired with a season and matched to a color. I didn’t do too well guessing the colors, but my friend got them all! I especially enjoyed Rosa Hyemalis, the greenest and coolest of the four.

Rubini

Rubini was one of the first brands I added to my list. I was drawn to this line from the moment I heard about it, and I was thrilled to learn that Cristiano Canali created all the fragrances. I will be testing them all on skin over the coming weeks, but I enjoyed Andrea Rubini’s description of Odenaturae, his personal ode to nature and highly recommended for lovers of green and bucolic scents.

Special fragrant mentions go to Farmacia SS. Annunziata Whisky Nobile, which is already on my wish list; the Japanese brand EDIT(h) – I tried their lovely new launch Cocktail Lane, but Souchong Journey is my personal favorite; Sora Dora Mallow, a sweet and billowy violet-centered fragrance; Mark Buxton Mi Confesión, inspired by a British jazz bar; Step Aboard, the fun and trendy line inspired by art in Milan, London, and soon-to-come Chicago; and The Spirit of Dubai, showcasing the most gorgeous bottles that enclose deep and refined fragrances.

I am especially grateful to Miya, @fabtrendsbymiya, of Mirads Parfums for taking the time to share her Impératrice La Vanille and Pendragon’s Heart (both were created by Miguel Matos). I loved spritzing both and sharing my thoughts live on video!

Lessons learned and navigating the event

As mentioned earlier, knowing what to explore in advance helped. I had a list of about 30 brands and everything else was a welcome bonus. Keeping an eye on Instagram was useful to spot brands highlighted by other fragrance lovers. For example, this is how I first heard of Rosae Virtus. I explored the fair with friends and on my own too but loved the collective experience more (thank you Sarah, Claudia, Claudio, Francesca, and Luca for sharing the fragrant love).

I attended Sarah Colton’s panel presentation, but I probably should have taken the time to go to more sessions.

I suggest wearing comfortable shoes as you will be standing a lot. Dress in layers and do not carry too much with you – tote bags are perfect!

Lunch options are scarce in that area of Milan, so I suggest eating a larger breakfast and avoiding the long lines at the food courts during lunchtime. Having an aperitivo in the late afternoon is always an inviting option if you skip lunch.

If you have a blog like me, business cards will help you network and keep in touch even after the event. I also liked reaching out to those who handed me their cards to thank them for their time.

I will soon share my impressions of the new releases from brands I already knew, a launch party, L’Osmothèque experience, and the houses I wish I had tried.

I’d like to thank the brands highlighted here for sharing their fragrances and stories during the event and, in several case, samples and sample sets.

Pictures were taken by me and Claudio Losa, as indicated.